The new store is located in a turn of the century waterfront building just around the
corner from Alter and Alter 140.
That Swedish menswear label Odeur still has no US stockist becomes more puzzling every season. What was basically a well-styled T-shirt line when we first covered them has become a complete menswear line, managing to maintain it's unique aesthetic each step of the way. But with an ever growing roster of Swedish and Japanese stockists, and with being picked up by the UK's Oki-Ni for fall, a US stockist is likely imminent. Meanwhile, thank God for online shopping and worldwide shipping.
Available at Oki-Ni, Doshaburi and Freudian Kicks.
That's not a typo. Doshaburi Doshaburi is the second incarnation of Doshaburi, our favorite Spanish avant-garde fashion shop. Doshaburi the sequel is a more sophisticated, minimal take on fashion, with some to die for pieces from avant-garde fashion legends and newcomers alike.
Ann Demeulemeester jacket
Ann Demeulemeester belt
Christian Wijnants knit dress
Petar Petrov sweater
Ute Ploier scarf
For some time, the rack or two of menswear inside Project No. 8 has been a source of some of the most considered yet creative men's clothing in New York. From these relatively humble beginnings came No. 8b, the Project No. 8 team's ambitious standalone men's boutique. The designers represented at shop share an almost obsessive attention to materials and craftsmanship. But creativity is also of import as each finds a way to subtly subvert stodgy menswear norms. Also in store are what could be considered projects No. 8c and No. 8d--namely a line well-made basics developed by the store under the label Various Projects and a collaboration with furniture manufacturer e15 to represent a rotating selection of the company's line.
Recently, Jargol got a sneak peak at New York based designer Telfar's upcoming Spring/Summer 2010 collection at EVA. Telfar's new collection held the top spot in the stores design window and was suspended from a group of androgynous white mannequins. The collection is light on fabric and heavy on geometry and layering. It is devoid of anything heavy like, zippers, buttons, or clasps. His white on white pieces were the strongest, if only for the fact that hung individually you get a real sense Telfar's signature geometry. You can find Telfar's work in New York at Oak, EVA, Pixie Market, Valley and Anything.
It was over 4 years ago that we walked into Los Angeles' Scout and were taken with the thoughtful collection of clothing from an international roster of budding fashion talents complemented by expertly curated vintage pieces. A lot has changed in four years. Scout moved to a new location in Hollywood. Jargol moved to New York. And Greg Armas, one of the original owners of Scout moved to New York himself and opened Assembly in mid-2008.
For his new retail effort, Armas has evolved the Scout retail concept. While still having an eye for up and coming fashion talents, Assembly honors the past as much as the future. This is reflected in the ambiance, in the prominently display selection of vintage clothing, accessories and objects, but also in the curation of new clothing and accessories. Surrounded by vintage and antique items that are desirable and relevant decades later, with Assembly there seems to be a predilection towards design and production that will stand the test of time. Shoes in beautiful, heavyweight leathers and canvases are preferred over trendy colorful sneakers. Shirts and dresses with careful construction and subdued colors prevail over more unorthodox treatments. Seasonal trends are mostly ignored.
Raquel Allegra tie dye top
Damir Doma sunglasses
Rachel Comey jazz shoe
A Detacher long sock
Veronique Branquinho button-up
Vintage 1940s brass piggy bank
So the big news of the day is that fashion insider favorite Opening Ceremony has finally launched its online store. Two word review: very nice!
Complex Geometries' Fall 2009 is now on up on their site. This is the Canadian label's best video lookbook yet.
Soup & Fish has a dual purpose. One is to promote and advance Austrian design. The other is to give people access to high-end fashion design at affordable prices. On both initiatives, the shop is doing a superlative job.
The shop's virtual shelves are kept stocked with pieces from nearly every Austrian designer doing significant work today, with some Belgian and other European designers thrown in for good measure. But rather than offer their latest designs at typically high prices, the shop serves as a saleable archive of sorts, offering dozens of pieces from season past, as far as 10 years back. Each item is available in one or a handful of sizes and is marked with the season it came from. More than just a glimpse back to designers' earlier years, the collection speaks to the timelessness of good design. Almost any one of these items could be mistaken for work from a current season.
A.F. Vandevorst (126 EURO)
Lutz (223 EURO)
Martin Margiela (230 EURO)
Ute Ploier (432 EURO)
Martin Margiela (132 EURO)
Pelican Avenue (60 EURO)
Austrians Wally Salner and Johannes Schweiger are the duo behind Fabrics Interseason. The label puts particular emphasis in textiles and the creative effects possible when various fabrics are layered and combined. The Spring 2009 collection uses a rather subdued palette, focusing on texture and subtle pattern.
Take one part granny-style floral prints, one part washed out denim, add in some slouchy silhouettes and comfortable cuts and you have the perfect Swedish summer a la Permanent Vacation. We liked their dark plaids and chocolate brown separates from last season, but leave it to a label name Permanent Vacation to know exactly what we'd want to wear during a long, lazy summer.
Ute Ploier has kindly put up a video of her Fall 2009 show.
Passarella Death Squad trousers at Oki-Ni (£125)
If you've ever spent any time in San Francisco, you'll know that the city pretty much has one season. We like to call it "always bring a sweater" weather. For Harputs Market this affords them the opportunity to slowly refine and add to a core collection of clothing the shop has been working on for the past year or so. Instead of joining the rat race of producing two collections a year, Harputs started their collection with no fanfare and has been adding to it piece by piece, refining the design and manufacturing themselves directly upstairs. The line is not so much basics, as a series of considered fashion experiments, producing unique pieces that are ever so wearable.
Quirky yet proper, Thom Browne's work introduces formal menswear to the modern world. It's fitting then to find his work at a shop that introduced avant-garde menswear fashion to streetwear. None other than Paris' Colette will be taking in Browne' for a short time, a store within the store being turned into a European version of Browne's Tribeca atelier. The cohabitation run until February 14th and pieces are also available at Colette's online store.
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